Ducati GT 1000 Throttle Cable
by Rick K. for webBikeWorld.com
I've been noodling on the possible reasons for the GT1000's super-sensitive
throttle. It could be anything from a too-light flywheel to fuel
injection and probably is amplified by the abundance of torque from the
1000DS engine at low RPMs.
But something Chris told me about similar problems with the FJR1300 got me
thinking. The FJR folks say that the hot setup is to remove all of the
throttle freeplay on that bike and apparently this helps solve the problem.
So I whipped out the GT1000 owner's manual and discovered that Ducati
recommends 1.5mm - 2.0mm throttle freeplay. I checked the owner's
manuals for the 1000DS Multistrada and Monster and they call for the same.
Oberon bar end mirrors prevent me from measuring the freeplay at the end
of the throttle grip, I drew a line on a piece of paper and taped it to the
throttle. I measured the freeplay at about 4.5mm, which is way too
Ducati recommends balancing the throttle bodies after a throttle cable
adjustment, and I plan on bringing my GT to the local dealer to do this
soon. But in the meantime, I adjusted the throttle cables down to
about 1.0mm of freeplay, which is slightly less than the minimum
recommendations. But I figure the cable will stretch some more and
it's very hard to get exact measurements when adjusting the throttle cable
All you'll need for this job is one 10mm and one 8mm open end wrench.
The throttle cable adjusters are located on the right side of the bike, in
the "V" of the engine. Here's a photo:
The yellow arrow indicates the upper throttle cable adjuster. The
upper adjuster controls the throttle closing and the lower adjuster controls
the throttle opening.
Each adjuster has a rubber cover that must be peeled back to access the
nuts. They're slightly sticky but they peeled back relatively easily
on my bike. Next, the 10mm nuts must be loosened; they're the nuts
closest to the bracket. Note that they're only tightened with what
feels like a couple of foot pounds of torque.
It's kind of hard to get the 10mm open end wrench on these nuts; I found
that I could reach in from the outside for the top nut but had to go in from
in back of the frame on the engine side to get the bottom nut.
Once they're loose, back them off a few turns. Use the 8mm open end
wrench to adjust the cable. I had to back mine off quite a bit to
tighten up the freeplay. I'm not sure if they're supposed to be turned
the same amount -- I tried to do this but it's nearly impossible to
calculate. Try to count the number of flats that you're turning each
one; you may want to mark one of the flats with a permanent marker first.
I adjusted them to take out all of the slack but then re-adjusted to get
about 1mm slack, which is slightly less than required but it seems fine.
I then road-tested the bike and it does seem to make a difference.
Before the adjustment, I felt like I would roll on the throttle quite a bit
before anything happened and then the engine would kick in. It seems
much smoother after the adjustment, more of a linear response replacing the
"on/off" jerkiness. I'll have to ride in a variety of weather
conditions to really understand the differences and I'll report back on my
Here are two animated photos showing the before (top) and after (bottom)
adjustments. The lines are slightly out of parallax because I couldn't
get the camera exactly lined up over the throttle, but I think you'll get
I'm now curious to see if the throttle bodies are out of adjustment and I'll
report back after I get this checked at the dealer.
UPDATE: Now that I've put a couple
of hundred miles on the bike after the throttle cable adjustment in a
variety of weather conditions (it went from 74 degrees two days ago to 47
today), I can report that tightening up the throttle cable has proven to be
the single best improvement I've made to the GT1000 so far. It really
does take out about 95% of the "on/off" abruptness in the throttle.
Maybe the throttle on my GT was out of adjustment right from the factory,
but taking out nearly all of the slack provides much better throttle
control, especially in the corners. Unfortunately, the last 5% is
probably an artifact of the fuel injection, which is a problem with many
fuel injection systems, no matter the brand.
This is especially noticeable at very slow speeds, when a slight throttle
movement causes the fuel injectors to blast the gas into the cylinders.
It's probably amplified by the bike having only two cylinders, tuned for an
abundance of torque at low RPMs.
Nevertheless, the throttle is now completely different and much better than
it was before. I still plan on bringing the bike to a local dealer to
check the throttle body balance and will report back on that project.
I'm sure I'm not the first one to do this maintenance task, so if anyone can
provide more intelligence on this project, feel free to send me an email at
GT1000 Background Info: Ducati GT1000
press release and Technical Specifications |
1000 Review |
Sportclassic Parts &
Information on the Sportclassics fuel line problem
Comments (bottom of GT review page) |
Sportclassic Parts & Accessories page
More Ducati Blogs:
Our Multistrada 620 Blog! |
Adam's Ducati GT1000
(UK) Blog with info on fitting a Scottoiler and Givi windscreen
Hindsight LS Mirrors |
GT 1000 Throttle Cable Adjustment |
GT 1000 Chain Adjustment |
Cool GT1000 - Sport 1000 Fly Screen |
GT1000 Oil and Filter Change |
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Pit Bull Sportclassics Rear Stand |
Oberon Bar End Mirrors and Soft Grips Installation | GT1000
Brake Light Bulb Replacement | Remove evaporative emissions canister for maintenance, inspection or repair
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Battery Charger Harness!
| Replace headlight bulb with
yellow version |
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If you have comments, further information, tips or guidance on
this project, please send it to me at
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