Patterns for the rear and top of the fuel tank; pattern for the sides of the fuel tank (right)

I use use plain white printer paper to create the patterns.  I usually lay a sheet (or two taped together) on the bike and very roughly sketch in the basic shape or design that I want with a pencil.  For example, on the side of a fuel tank, the shape may be oval on top and straight across the bottom (see photo left).

Scotchcal pretty much disappears when it's properly installed, so I've learned that it really doesn't matter all that much if the shapes aren't exactly symmetrical or if the edges aren't perfectly straight. 

Study the photos of the finished product at the bottom of this page, and it becomes apparent that you really have to look to see where the film is installed; the owner will probably know that it's there because he or she installed it, but a casual observer probably wouldn't notice it.

After sketching the rough shape, I smooth out the lines with my pencil and then cut the pattern slightly bigger than necessary.  Then it's a matter of back and forth, trial and error, cutting until it fits correctly or until the pattern looks like it's going to work.  Lay it over the film side of the Scotchcal and trace the pattern with a roller ball pen -- this is important -- not a ball point.  The roller ball ink for some reason disappears, while ball point ink seems to permanently mark the Scotchcal.

On the Ducati, we cut the pattern shown on the right in the photo above to fit the fuel tank sides.  Since the sides are relatively flat, these two pieces were easy to install.  One thing to remember when using the same pattern for both sides of the bike, (e.g., battery covers, sides of the fuel tank, etc.) is that the pattern must be flipped over when the tracing is laid on the Scotchcal, or the pattern will end up with the adhesive on the wrong side of the film.

This type of paint protection film is usually installed wet - very wet.  X-Pel's directions include the recipe for the mixture; it's mostly water, a touch of rubbing alcohol, and a couple of drops only of dishwashing liquid.  I used to follow the recipe religiously, but now I just throw together a bit of this and that and it seems to work.

Before the film is installed, the surface must be cleaned with something like Glass Plus. Don't use an ammonia-based cleaner, because it can discolor some plastics and possibly the Scotchcal over time.  I then usually take some rubbing alcohol and give the surface a final cleaning to remove any wax or grease residue.

X-Pel's directions say to spray the mixture over the desired area and also spray the outside and inside of the film as it's peeled away from the backing.  I try to get everything as wet as possible,  because this makes it easier to slide the film around, similar to laying on a decal on a model car or plane.  Keep spraying and keep everything wet!

Failed attempt #1, rough edges and creased film.

"It's all in the wrist", as they say -- start from the middle and squeegee out to the edges.  There are all sorts of tricks and tips to be learned with practice, but try flat surfaces first, it's really rather easy. 

The idea is to work any of the air bubbles out towards the edges.  The edges can be picked up and peeled back to work out any bubbles if necessary.  Don't press too hard on a bubble, or you'll risk folding and creasing the film.

Water, tiny bubbles and foam may appear under the film, but as long as there are no large bubbles, it's usually not a problem.  If a bubble does appear and it's too late to pick up the edge, a small pin can be used to puncture it, and the water can be squeegeed out.  I've done this many times and I usually can't locate the pinprick the next day. 

After about 24 hours, the film will dry and set and clear up.  But while you're squeegeeing (is that a word?), try to look at the surface from different angles to make sure that any of the bubbles are identified and removed.

Sometimes the edges are tricky, and they can be dealt with by pressing with the fingers or even a terry cloth towel.  The technique is to keep stoking the surface with the squeegee until all the water is removed and the adhesive starts to stick.

Although the sides of the Ducati's fuel tank were easy, we had some problems with the rear of the tank, and ended up having to do the job over again.  The problem is that there are several very compound curves, and the film will only stretch so far before it starts to crease. 

Protecting the rear and top rear edge of the tank on this bike is important, because it's used only as a track bike and the rider is moving back and forth when hanging off and also crouching down behind the fairing, rubbing on the top of the tank.

The first time around, we laid a single piece of film from the base of the tank all the way up over the top curve.  You can see the result from the photo on the left -- the film buckled and looked pretty ratty around the edges.  We were running out of time, it was getting dark and it was Barber track day weekend, so we left it on there to at least protect the paint, even if I was embarrassed that my name would be attached to that quality of work!

We decided to try again, and this time we cut two patterns for the back of the tank, shown in the photo (with the patterns) above.  The bottom half in the rear of the tank was relatively easy to cut and install.  We cut several pieces for the top section, and pondered the best solution, and finally came up with a piece that has a slit cut in the top, which helps the upper edges of the film to bend enough to wrap around the radii.

The result is illustrated below -- I had to put some arrows on the photos so you could see the edges of the film.  This time, the installation turned out well, although I'm still a bit worried that the round corners at the rear of the tank won't be protected.  But the bike's going back to the track this weekend and the owner will report back to see how everything worked out.