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Firstgear Carbon Heated Gloves
Firstgear Carbon Heated Waterproof Motorcycle
Gloves
by "Burn" and Rick for webBikeWorld.com.
More:
Summary: No more cold hands! Waterproof and comfortable
with minimal bulk.
The Firstgear Carbon heated gloves look and feel like "normal" leather
motorcycle gloves, but light 'em up and feel the warmth!
Part 8 of a
9-part series.
Background
What started as as a simple look at a one or two
different options for winter warmth has turned into a
9-part winter motorcycle glove marathon.
We originally called this a
comparison but it's turned out to be more of a survey
covering a variety of solutions for cold-weather
motorcycle riding.
Obviously there are many more
brands we could have evaluated, but we do think this
report describes a variety of choices for a wide range
of weather conditions and budgetary constraints.
The gloves in our survey
range from the basic Fieldsheer Aqua Sport gloves
designed for milder winters to the Firstgear Carbon
heated gloves that are the subject of this penultimate
installment.
All of the gloves in the
survey are claimed waterproof. One pair had a
slight leak in the thumb, but the others passed our
"bucket test" without a problem, including the Firstgear
Carbon gloves; a very good thing indeed, considering the
consequences of a leak in an electrically heated glove
(don't worry -- it's DC). That's why they make
fuses, I suppose...
The question most
webBikeWorld readers have though is very simple: Which
glove is the warmest? This is especially
important this winter, which has turned out to be one of
the coldest on record here in the States.
OK, so heat is what you
want? You got it. The Firstgear Carbon
Heated gloves.
Granted, comparing electrically
heated gloves with the other non-heated gloves in this
comparison may not seem fair. But when your breath
freezes on the back of the visor and your neck feels
like it's wrapped in an icicle scarf, these are the
gloves you want covering your mitts.

Firstgear Carbon Heated
Gloves Electrics
We haven't dissected a Firstgear Carbon glove, so
we're not sure of the exact
layout of the wires or elements. Firstgear told us the
heating elements are in the back of the hand and down
through the fingers, and each glove puts out 15 watts of
heat at 12.8 Volts.
What we do know is that
these babies will definitely keep your mitts warm!
The Firstgear Carbon heated gloves are the first heated
gloves we've tried that really do what
they're supposed to.
Designed to connect to a
Firstgear heated jacket liner, the Carbon gloves can
also be worn independently, which is how we evaluated
this pair.
Each glove has a round coax
connector (female) of the type commonly found on
motorcycle heated clothing. The connectors are located on the inside of the
gauntlet and which from up on top of the wrist.
Firstgear also provides a motorcycle battery
harness with the Carbon gloves. The harness has
round terminals for the battery and a 15-Amp blade-type inline fuse.
When all is said and done,
we recommend using the Firstgear Carbon gloves with the Firstgear heated liner
to avoid the wiring issues described below. We
haven't tried the gloves with other brands of heated
garments, but the coax connector will probably work;
just make sure you carefully study the electrical
requirements first.
An optional ($14.95) "Y" harness
is required to use the gloves without connecting them to
another heated garment. The Y harness connects the
gloves to the wiring that goes to the motorcycle battery.
And unless you want the
gloves to be "on" all the time -- definitely not
recommended -- you'll also need a controller like the
Heat-Troller described below, which controls the
electric flow to the gloves or turns it completely off
if desired. Take it from us -- you want a
controller and Firstgear recommends the use of a
controller also.

Optional Heat-Troller
We've discussed issues regarding the Heat-Troller
previously on webBikeWorld. We think it seems
strange to have to buy the controller separately, which
is analogous to buying a car and then having to purchase
an engine as a separate option.
In the case of the Carbon
gloves though, the absence of a controller as original
equipment is understandable, because the gloves are
primarily designed to connect to the Firstgear heated
liner.
However, owners who wish to
separately control both glove and liner temperature (you
would, right?) will need either two Heat-Trollers or the
dual Heat-Troller model. So the Heat-Troller is
really a necessary option, if there is such a thing.
This is in no way an issue
with or the fault of Warm & Safe, the manufacturers of
the Heat-Troller. We think the manufacturer of the
heated garment should always provide a controller that
will allow the rider to turned the heated garment on and off and to control
the temperature. One of the reasons we like the
Tourmaster Synergy vest (review) is that it comes with a built-in
controller.
At time of publication, the
Firstgear Carbon Heated gloves have a list price of
$169.95 and the Heat-Troller lists for $69.95 from
Firstgear ($89.95 from Warm & Safe, the manufacturer).
Add in the "Y" connector at $14.95 and we're up to
$239.90 + $14.95 = $254.85, a not insignificant sum.
But what price warmth?
The Firstgear-labeled Heat-Troller feels like
a robust unit, although it's perhaps about 3 times larger
than it should or could be in this age of miniaturization
(but other types of Heat-Trollers are available, see
below).
But
one thing is surprising: The dial on the Heat-Troller does not have
detents. This is the first time we've used a Heat-Troller,
so
we assumed that a device with a dial that controls
temperature and is used while wearing heavy winter
gloves would surely have detents to provide feedback on
the dial position? Apparently not.
The absence of detents also makes
it difficult to place the Heat-Troller in a pocket, which we
tried during the early stages of our trials. The
knob on the Heat-Troller moves too easily without
detents, so put it in a
pocket with gloved hands and the knob usually turns,
changing the setting.
But even when the Heat-Troller
is
mounted on the handlebars or fairing, the absence of
detents means that there's no positive feedback on the
settings. So you'll have to either guess or take
your eyes off the road to look down at it to see where it's set.
Surely a
series of detents, something like "Off, Low, Med, High
and Roast" or similar would be of more value? How
about it, Heat-Troller
users -- what say you?
Wiring Details
The primary disadvantage of heated gloves is having to
deal with
the wiring -- one of the reasons we're anxiously waiting
for "the" breakthrough pair of battery heated gloves.
The actual labor involved in
installing the wiring is relatively easy, but designing
the layout takes some thought.
Dealing with wiring during
everyday riding is usually a hassle, no matter what type
or brand of
electrically heated motorcycle garment is involved. It's
something the rider becomes accustomed to and it makes
ride preparation more complex than simply throwing on a
pair of gloves, jumping on the bike and taking off.
But before you can ride and
enjoy the warmth,
you'll need to install the wiring. Most heated
garments have connections for pants, liners, gloves,
etc., but wiring any one of these independently and
directly to the motorcycle battery usually
results in compromises.
What you're about to read is
a very convoluted process for installing the wiring for the gloves
to connect directly to the
motorcycle battery rather than to another heated
garment such as a jacket liner. Again, we think it
makes more sense to connect the gloves to the built-in
wiring on the Firstgear heated liner rather than go this
independent route.
Here We Go...
The Multistrada "mule" used
for winter evaluations already has a short Tourmaster
fused harness that is attached to the battery. It
has a coax connector
that is cable-tied to a frame tube on the left side of the bike.
This powers the
Tourmaster Synergy vest, which has a
controller that hangs out the bottom, so it's a fairly
straightforward procedure to get on the bike, plug in
the vest, start the bike, adjust the temperature on the
controller and go. The Synergy controller hangs
near the thigh and has push buttons for low, medium,
high and off.
Although the
Tourmaster-labeled battery harness was supplied with the Synergy vest
package, it's a standard coax harness and we experienced no problems using it
with the Firstgear gloves thanks to worldwide electrical
connector standards.
The basic harness routing
for the gloves to be used independently of the Firstgear
vest goes like this: battery harness, then a wire that
runs up to the handlebars, then the Heat-Troller, then a
Y harness connected to the Heat-Troller with the two
opposite ends connected to the gloves.
The Heat-Troller has one
wire going in and one going out and each wire is about
50 cm (20") long. Think of the Heat-Troller as a
valve that flows electricity (or heat) to the gloves
like a hose. So it must be plumbed in to the line
somewhere between the harness that comes off the
motorcycle battery and the gloves.
The biggest issue here is
that the battery harness typically provided with
motorcycle heated gear is short and provides only enough
wire to run from the battery to one side of the bike,
where the coax connector is usually secured with
hook-and-loop tape.
The Firstgear labeled
Heat-Troller harness is also short. Since it's
usually mounted in front of the fuel tank somewhere on
the handlebars or inside the fairing, it would have been
better to have extra long wiring.
Warm & Safe, the
manufacturer of the Heat-Troller, makes several
different styles including a version designed for heated
grips. That unit has a knob that is mounted remotely from
the control box, and it may have been a better option
for us.
To mount our Firstgear
Heat-Troller at the handlebars, we needed either
a long battery harness or a single-wire battery harness
extension with the coax connectors on either end.
Alternatively, the
Heat-Troller could be connected to the short battery
harness and the Heat-Troller could be mounted with
double-sided tape or tape-backed Velcro down on the side
of the bike. Then you would reach down to operate
the Heat-Troller.
We also tried connecting the
Heat-Troller to the battery harness and placing the
Heat-Troller in the left jacket pocket, but that didn't
work due to the Heat-Troller control knob (described in
the Heat-Troller section above).
This all sounds very
complicated but it isn't really -- it takes longer to
describe it in words than it is. The basic layout
is this: battery
harness, then Heat-Troller, then Y harness, then gloves.
There are multiple ways this wiring can be installed.
The optional Firstgear Y
harness we purchased is very long at about 1.3 m (about
50"), which means there's a lot of extra wiring that
must be coiled and secured up front. We left enough of the Y
harness up front to allow the rider to lift his or her
hands to open the helmet visor or perform other tasks if
necessary.
This is the only problem with using the
heated gloves independent from the heated liner --
you'll end up with some extra wire artifacts up front,
unless you route the wires up through the jacket, which
is possible but which we chose not to do.
So here's a recap of how it
all works: After the rider is suited up and the
gloves are on with the gauntlets over the jacket sleeve,
get on the bike, perform all the pre-flight checks,
start it up and then plug the gloves into the Y harness. The
Heat-Troller should not be turned on until after the
bike is started. The very last step is to turn on
the Heat-Troller.
Remember -- this is a
convoluted procedure only because the gloves are being
used without connecting them to the Firstgear heated
liner. If you do this, remember that you'll end up
with extra lengths of wire between the gloves and the
handlebars, which could be dangerous. You'll need
the extra wire though to move your hands away from the
controls to do things like lifting or wiping your visor,
scratching your arm, etc.
Alternative: If the
wires are run inside the jacket,
the gauntlets should be worn under the sleeves, which
results in a slightly
more complicated procedure to put the clothing on, hook
up the gloves, then button everything up while wearing
the gloves.
If you're wearing the
Firstgear heated liner (and possibly others; we see no
reason why the Carbon gloves wouldn't work with other
heated liners that utilized the same plug type, although
we haven't tried this), you could probably also connect
the gloves as the last step.

Riding With the Firstgear
Carbon Heated Gloves
After everything is installed and tested, it's a real
pleasure to click on the Heat-Troller, ramp it up and
feel the Firstgear Carbon gloves
pour out the heat.
The gloves distribute a
nice, even heat just where it's needed. Not enough to burn your
hands, mind you -- that would be both unnecessary
and a potentially dangerous distraction. They
provide a nice even amount of warmth with enough power
to keep our hands warm in the coldest temperatures we'd
ever dare ride in.
In milder temperatures, like
40-degree F days (4.5 C), the usual procedure is to dial
back the heat from Ahead Full to Back Two-Thirds. At 45 F (7 C), we have to
lower the heat to about 1/3 on, then cycle it on and off
if the gloves get too warm.
Again, this is warm,
even heat that can be felt, but not something that 20
seconds after it is turned on that you feel a strong
surge.
Of course, the amount of
perceived heat also depends on ambient temperatures and
wind conditions. But the Porelle liner does a good
job at blocking the wind. It's also breathable and
waterproof, as our "bucket test" proved.
The bottom line here is that
the wiring hassles described above makes it all
worthwhile once you feel the warmth that the Firstgear
Carbon heated gloves provide.


Firstgear Carbon Heated Glove Fit
and Comfort
The Carbon gloves look and feel pretty much like your
basic, all-around leather motorcycle glove. They do have
a slightly stiff feel, probably due to the internal
wiring and the Porelle liner, but they're generally
comfortable.
One of the advantages of
heated gloves is the absence of the thick insulation of
non-heated gloves. This thick overstuffed feeling
is one of the biggest complaints about heavy winter
gloves, according to webBikeWorld visitors.
The Carbon gloves have a
Thinsulate lining that doesn't interfere with grip feel.
The liner material is soft and it feels like a thin
micro-fleece. It's fairly comfortable but it
doesn't seem to absorb or transfer moisture as well as
it could, but it's not bad otherwise.
The size large gloves shown
here fit about 1/2 size larger than expected, which
actually leaves just enough extra room in the fingertips
for gripping the handlebars, but the "blade" shaped
thumb is slightly longer than it should be.
Finger, Thumb and Overall
Construction
The stitching and construction of the Carbon gloves is
generally very good -- not up to the standards maybe of
the Held Freezer or Rev'it gloves in this comparison,
but no obvious problems to report.
The fingertips use the "X"
shape modified box section, which leaves enough room
proportionally for the glove size. The backs of
the fingers have reflective fabric sections with minimal
padding underneath.
The Carbon name apparently
comes from the large carbon fiber main knuckle
protector, which floats on the back of the glove with a
space underneath between the protector and the glove
body. It provides enough room for the rider's hand
with no binding. A separate section of carbon
fiber is located towards the back of the wrist, over the
scaphoid.
The leather was slightly
stiff at first but seems to be breaking in over time and
feels more supple. There are no loose threads and
the gloves exhibit very good overall quality.


Gauntlet
The gauntlet on the Carbon gloves is about 155 mm wide,
which puts it around mid-pack in our comparison.
The gauntlet is long enough though, which is important
if the gloves are to be plugged in to an external
harness.
We had problems getting the Carbon gloves to pass our
"security test" at first. To pass, a glove must
remain securely on the hand when all of the straps are
fastened and you try to pull the glove off with the
other hand. We've found that gloves with the wrist
strap on the underside usually have less trouble with
the test than when the strap is mounted above.
The Carbon gloves remain secure on some hands but not
others because the topside strap can't always be
tightened enough to hold the glove.



Water Resistance
The Firstgear Carbon heated gloves
passed the "bucket test". The evaluator wears the
gloves and puts his hand in a bucket of water for 5
minutes or longer, and if no moisture leaks in, the
gloves pass.
Conclusion
The Firstgear Carbon heated gloves are a definite answer
to cold hands. If you can deal with the wiring
hassles, the warmth and their waterproof capabilities
make these the warmest gloves we've ever tried, and
there's probably no sane temperature where these gloves
wouldn't keep your hands nice and toasty.
► More:
2008 Winter Motorcycle Gloves Home and Comparison Rating
Chart
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Product Review: Firstgear Carbon Heated Motorcycle Gloves |
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BUY 'EM! Get
your Firstgear Carbon Heated Gloves with
this affiliate link to
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and help support webBikeWorld! |
| Available
From: Firstgear |
List Price: $169.95 (gloves).
Heat-Troller ranges from $69.95 to $89.95.
Y-harness is $14.95. |
Colors:
Black
Sizes: S - XXL |
Made
in: Unknown |
| Review Date:
January 2009 |
Note: For informational use only. All material and
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►Reader Comments and
Owner Feedback
Please
send
comments to
Comments are ordered from most recent to oldest.
Not all comments will be posted. Posted comments may be edited.
From "J.M." (2/09): "I ended up
buying the gloves you reviewed and thought id give you
my experience and review as I'm using them on a
snowmobile in temps about 6-20 degrees this past
weekend.
Overall these heated gloves exceeded my expectations.
They were plenty warm, they were too warm at full power
and i couldn't go past the half way mark on the
controller. This tells me that these gloves would
work perfect at 0 degrees and lower .
There has been days where I've ridden at -15 below 0.
Anyone wanting to use them on a snowmobile will not be
disappointed at all. The controller worked well
and did not change settings even with all the jumping
and rough terrain riding. I used a cigarette plug
adapter to power them as the new Arctic Cats come stock
with a cigarette lighter type plug.
Thanks for your initial review as it was very helpful
in choosing the right heated glove."
From "R.P." (1/09): "Hi, I don’t
have the Carbon gloves, just the heated rider gloves.
Are they both expensive? Yes, mine ran around 220
bucks for a dual portable troller, the gloves and the Y
cable. In my opinion it was well worth the money.
I see it like this, why freeze then be in pain from
frostbite or just your hands getting cold and
uncomfortable to unbearable when you don’t have too,
that’s like driving your car in the winter without the
heat on and the window rolled down. That’s just my
thoughts."
From "M.B." (1/09): "I am writing in
response to your story regarding the First Gear Carbon
Heated Gloves. I ride a '05 CBR 1000RR year round.
I commute 45 miles one way nearly every day that is not
icy/snowy.
I use the dual controller that I have hook-n-looped
to the Honda HESD steering damper cover. I use
this in conjunction with the heated jacket. This
set-up is about as idiot-proof as it gets: plug the
gloves into the wires from the sleeves, plug the jacket
into the wire from the bike and turn the knob, and go.
Now, I also have the heated pant liners which I use
on a separate line with the dual Heat-Troller... this I
admit to not actually using as much because with my
First Gear insulated water-proof over pants keep my legs
so warm that I often get over heated.
These pants have a
insulated liner that can be removed, but I'm too lazy to
do that, and find that 90% I stay warm enough with this
ensemble that I don't have to mess around with the
other. I simply don't want to hassle with running
the gloves on one line with the jacket on the other
since I always use them together.
I don't find the issue of lacking detents a realistic
problem because of the continuous nature of the control
device. Need more warmth, spin it up; getting too
warm, then turn it down. After all what's too
warm, or too cold? It's subjective; it would vary
on my mood, health, speed, time, day, ambient temp and
weather conditions any way. If there were only
low, medium, high, and roast like you suggested that
would be too limiting in my book.
Once the prerequisite wiring is in place it's no
bother. And even doing the initial electrical
wasn't any worse than any other project of this nature.
Everything needed is included when you buy the Heat-Troller.
Generally, I am very pleased with this set-up... it's
actually the best that I've used in twenty years of
wearing heated garments. My only real complaint is
with the lack of finite placement of the soft fabric
liner in the fingers.
This comfort liner can sometimes shift if you stick
damp hands inside the gloves and for some reason have to
pull your hands back out quickly. As in situation
where you forgot to do something and need a bare hand
(usually because of the need for fine dexterity) and
upon pulling your hand out of the glove the fingers of
the liner pull into the palm area. Then you have
to make sure the liner aligns into the proper gloved
leather finger.
This only happened twice when I first got them... and
only an issue because I was in a hurry. Now I make
sure that I pull my hands out of the glove more
carefully, and haven't had an issue since.
I can attest to the fact that these gloves (and
jacket) are the warmest of any brand I've used to date.
I've used them to ambient temps of 27-degrees F and was
comfortable. They witness everything from
stop-n-go city traffic, up to supra-legal freeway
speeds. I live a a region that receives a lot of
rain, and I've not had a problem with wet hands yet.
This is my third winter on this set-up.
I don't have especially large hands, but I found the
sizing ran at least a full size small. So, I would
strongly encourage people to try them on first, or check
on return policy of place of purchase. I usually
wear a Large (I've even used Medium on some makes like
Spidi racing gloves), these gloves that I now have are
XL. So sizing my be inconsistent. I've had
no issues with loose threads, or seams coming unsewn.
When/if, these wear out I'd buy 'em again."


From "M.S." (1/09): "For the
extremely budget minded, a dimmer switch from an
automobile (the one that dims the dash lights) works
very well mounted to a fairing and sealed up
protectively. They usually have detents and have a
large detent for fully on."
NOTE: webBikeWorld reader "M.N."
responds to the comments above: "(This) is
bad advice and dangerous. IP dimmers are typically
rated 2-5 Amps. Firstgear's 90 W jacket at 12.8 V
results in ~7 A… and that doesn’t even include adding in
15 W gloves! A potential fire hazard (or at least,
melting) exists if not properly fuse-protected."
From "J.W." (1/09): "I had a feeling
I'd be emailing you directly after this review! It
was nice to see it up there and also nice to see
comments from other users and their experiences with the
gloves.
The first thing I'd like to address is the wiring
debacle. When I got ready to pony up the cash to
purchase these, I also thought I was going to have to be
tethered to the handlebars while rolling down the road,
something I dreaded. Another rider here at work
wears only the gloves and no vest/liner. I went to
him about it when he revealed one of those "Well why
didn't I think of that?" ideas.
He used one of the optional pouches for the Heat-Troller
($9.95 retail for the single controller pouch and $11.95
for the dual controller pouch) to clip to a belt/pocket
and ran the Y-harness inside his jacket from his waist
up through his sleeves. He also sewed the wire
harness to points inside of his jacket to keep it handy
all winter long.
This leaves you with a setup similar to a vest or
liner. If you'll notice, the Y-Harness is unequal
length so you can run it from either side of your waist.
I'm 6'2" with relatively long arms and there is plenty
of wire to spare.
I also bought the Tourmaster vest last winter as the
Firstgear stuff was back ordered in it's first year.
When I bought the gloves along with the Heat-Troller and
Y-harness I found that I could plug the Y-harness into
the extra connector inside the vest that was originally
put there for the heated pant liners.
I then cut the Tourmaster controller out of the loop
and hardwired the vest so that I could plug in the
Firstgear Heat-Troller. I used the Tourmaster
elastic strap that the Tourmaster controller mounted on
and attached my controller to that. I'll probably
soon purchase the optional clip pouch my friend had.
Running the wires through the sleeves, neither I nor
my rider friend at work have had any trouble fitting our
sleeves inside of the gauntlet. Perhaps your
particular jacket/suit you wore during the test had
longer sleeves and caused some bunching, but I
personally haven't had any problems with this set up.
A lot of people (myself included) look at the
Firstgear heated gear catalog and immediately say "Why
should I have to pay extra for this?" and "There are too
many options. This is a hassle!" and on and on.
But when you look at it from a serious year-round
rider's perspective, you realize that 1) whatever it
takes to make you comfortable (safe) on the bike, it's
worth it for reliable, high quality gear that works.
And 2) rather than a complicated hassle, what you have
before you are options.
Have a BMW that you don't intend selling in this life
or the next? Get one of the dual permanent mount
controllers and do a nice, clean install on your dash.
Do you have multiple bikes, or do you buy sell and trade
so fast your friend's aren't even sure what's in your
garage? Buy 1 or more battery harnesses and move
them from bike to bike or have any of your bikes ready
to go at a moment's notice while you keep the portable
Heat-Troller attached to your vest/liner/gloves.
I hope this information helps. Thanks again for
the writeup."
From "B.R." (1/09): "I have been
using a Heat-Troller with a Warm N Safe jacket liner for
4 years now and I would disagree with any need for
detents or other visible settings. Here's the deal
-
When using the gear, you turn it on and if the temp
isn't to your liking you turn the knob up or down as
required until you get the the temp that you like.
You would never really want to use with the
controller in a pocket as with the variability of riding
in cold weather you want to be able to easily access and
adjust the temp - IE: You'll likely need it higher up
when riding on a heavily shaded road, but when you pop
out into a long stretch of sunny road you'll likely want
to reduce the Heat-Troller setting. After a few
uses, you get very good at "guestimating" how much you
need to turn the knob to get where you want to be.
When I first started using it, I did tend to look at
the frequency of the flashing LED on the Heat-Troller to
get an idea of how "high" it was, but as I said above I
quickly learned that wasn't necessary - just go by how
you feel and adjust accordingly from there.
I mount my Heat-Troller directly on the top of my
fuel tank (with a strip of Velcro) so it is easily
accessible with either hand while riding. If I am
running with my tank bag, then it gets mounted up on
that again so it is always easily accessible for
adjustment with either hand as needed. Works the
charm.
Just used mine this morning for a 150 mile ride
through central Florida - it was 37 degrees when we
left, and had warmed up to 50 by the time we got back
home. I also use and highly recommend heated
grips, though if I lived and wanted to ride all the time
up "north" I'd likely switch to heated gloves."
From "C.B." (1/09): "For a couple of
months I have had the heated gloves, jacket liner and
dual heat-controller and they are working out very well
for me. I have ridden in mid 20's F and was
comfortable.
What I think First Gear could improve on:
-
Larger diameter on the
gauntlet cuff.
-
Somehow improve the wire
or wiring hook-up between the glove and jacket.
-
Use better marking on the
knobs as to which control knob goes to which output.
-
Softer/more flexible
Wiring in the hook-up wire and wire sheathing.
I'm still working out what is the best controller
location and wiring routes."
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