GT1000 Comfort Bars and Handlebar Risers

November 28, 2009 - More GT1000 Handlebars

From "J.M.":  "While searching for a solution that would raise the handlebars a bit without the very clunky look of the Gen-Mar spacers, I tried using a set of old spacers I had for a Triumph Bonneville made by SpacerJim.  They worked with a little tweaking for the larger Ducati bolts.

After contacting him about it, he made custom spacers in a polished finish for the Ducati SportClassic that fit perfectly, and raise the handlebars just 1" or 1.25" (and thus don't require new cables), but put the bars in a much more relaxed position, at least for me.  As a bonus, they're very inexpensive ($30)!

I thought your readers might benefit from the tip, since the 'stack of zinc washers' approach is effective but very ugly.  I've attached a picture of the risers installed on my '07 GT1000:

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September 21, 2009 - This information on sport handlebars for the GT1000 arrived from "P.J.":

"Just a few lines of warning regarding the comfort bars for the Ducati GT1000.  I purchased a genuine bar kit from a Ducati dealer in Lincoln just before Easter 2009.  I fitted the bars over the Easter period, only to find that the pre-drilled hole for the clutch lever assembly was drilled incorrectly.

If the dowel was fitted into the hole and the assembly, the clutch lever assembly including the reservoir was (tilted) approximately 30 degrees forward.

I contacted Ducati via email and the dealer via telephone regarding this problem.  I received acknowledgement from Ducati UK regarding my complaint and was informed on the 14th May via email that all stock at the factory had been checked and found to be correct.

The dealer in Lincoln has since that date had three sets of bars in for me, all exactly the same as the incorrect set I received in the kit, the dealer will not get any more in as they state that Ducati will not refund the cost after items sent out.

Since that date I have contacted both the dealer and Ducati UK and the last communication I received from Ducati UK was on the 14th August stating that emails had been sent but the factory was on holiday.

I have been offered a refund (for) this item but I feel that this is just an easy way for the problem to be resolved by Ducati UK.

During one of my visits to the dealer it was suggested by one of the technicians that I just drill another hole in the bars, (but) this was dismissed by a more senior technician.  This makes me wonder, that if no one can find a good set of comfort bars, have dealers who has fitted these bars been just drilling another hole to make the clutch lever assembly fit correctly, thus possibly weakening the bars?

The latest info I got from the dealer, about two weeks ago was that they had got a bike in with comfort bars fitted and they were going to photograph the bars, alongside a set of incorrect bars and send this info to the factory."

Editor's Note:  If any GT1000 owners have a set of comfort bars installed and can comment on this issue, please let me know.
 

Ducati SportClassic Oil Cooler Radiator Guard

May 27, 2009 - Another cool must-have accessory from Paul Smith and CustomDucati: the Ducati SportClassic Oil Cooler Radiator Guard!

GT1000 and SportClassic Hugger

   April 4, 2009 - Easy-to-install hugger for the GT1000 and dual-shock SportClassics

GT1000 and SportClassic Fork Guards

November 4, 2008 - Aluminum fork guards for SportClassics!

Fat Duc O2 Oxygen Sensor Manipulator

October 11, 2008 - The Fat Duc O2 Manipulator really works -- it's transformed the GT1000!
 

GT1000 Center Stand?

UPDATE:  October 18, 2008 - Fitting the GT1000 Center Stand; information and assembly!
 

GT1000 Battery Access

August 17, 2008 - I hope you caught our recent motorcycle horn comparison; as you'll see in that article, we used the GT1000 as the "mule".  But before we started playing with the horns, I installed a relay, running directly off the battery. 

I purchased a couple of ready-made Eastern Beaver dual horn relay kits (review), but it took quite a bit of modification to get everything to work, so in the end, it might have been easier to simply use one of the relays that came with the horns.

My GT1000 came with an accessory two-in SAE Battery Tender connector already attached to the battery. 

You may recall this was an early blog entry (see Blog Page 2) and I thought it was put there by Ducati, but apparently it was done by the dealer during prep. 

It's a good idea to install an SAE harness harness if you don't have it, because it can be used for many other accessories also.

For the horn installation, I added a second harness to the battery, which I can now use to attach any other accessories to the bike. 

I soldered a couple of round connectors to the ends of the wire (photo left), but then clipped part of the tips so I could slip them under the battery terminal screws without having to remove the screws themselves.

Accessing the battery on the GT1000 is a bit tricky, and you have to be careful to make sure you don't short anything out by mistake.  You'll have to remove the seat and both side covers; they are held by an Allen screw in the back, I think it's a 4 mm. 

The battery is held inside a plastic case to keep it protected from the crud flying off the rear wheel.  I use a pair of needle-nose pliers to grab the rubber band on each side and pull it up and over and off the hook on the battery case.  This allows the battery cover to be easily removed.

Now you have to be careful -- you may think you can slip a screwdriver down into the hole on the frame right above the battery terminal Phillips head screws (orange arrow, photo left).

But, as I found out, it's way to easy to short the positive terminal to the frame as you're trying to squeeze the screwdriver down through the hole.

I'm a slow learner, so I even tried it with an insulated screwdriver (the shaft is covered in plastic), but the screw is oriented in a way that I couldn't loosen it anyway without stripping the Phillips head. 

The best bet is to go from behind with a 10 mm wrench and loosen the screws.  Be careful not to short out the positive terminal to the frame!  Notice the red and black wires in the photo -- they're already attached to the battery and I routed them up on either side.

If you're ever under the seat you may want to install a harness like this anyway and put a Posi-Lock (review) terminal connector over the ends, this way you'll have a ready-made harness for things like electric clothing or a battery charger.

Note that in the photo all you see is the wires.  Remember that you'll probably need a fuse somewhere along the hot lead; I used the fuse block from the Eastern Beaver harness.  Most electrical accessories like clothing or the Battery Tender will come with their own fuse block.  I think the best bet is to use a Posi-Twist connector (review) to attach any electrical accessory to your el Cheapo harness.
 

GT1000 Fuel Tank Spreading Problem Fix

July 31, 2008 - Some GT1000 owners are reporting problems with the fuel tank.  Apparently, the polycarbonate fuel tank starts to spread and the brackets that hold it at the front become ineffective.

Here's a fix.
 

GT1000 Exhaust Modification

May 18, 2008 - Don from Ducatis Unlimited Connection says "Thought I'd share a modification to the stock GT1000's exhaust 'cans' that has become quite popular among members of Ducati.ms's SportClassic forum members.

The basic modification involved drilling two 5/16 inch holes in the rear of each exhaust canister that go through both the outer shell and the rear wall of the rearmost internal compartment.  The holes are then smoothed out with a fine file or Dremel tool, and a flat black heat resistant paint is then applied to the indented portion on the canister.

My original purpose for making the modification was solely to improve the sound of the original exhaust system. It was not expected to enhance performance.  But to my surprise, along with the expected better sound, the modification also brought about a greater and more significant improvement: It largely eliminates the unpleasant low rpm vibration that has annoyed many GT1000 owners.

Here is a link to the forum thread (which presently has almost 200 posts).  The thread provides details of how the modification is made and provides numerous evaluations of its effects by forum members who have made (and in some cases further modified) the modification.  The thread also contains my somewhat speculative explanation for the improvement the mod makes in the bike's low rpm feel."
 

Carrozzeria Wheels Review

May 14, 2008 - Yeah!  Check out my Carrozzeria Wheels review -- these gold-anodized, forged aluminum beauties are now gracing my GT1000!

GT1000 Fuel Tank Problem?

May 8, 2008 - Reader "J.D." told us about a potential fuel tank issue with the GT1000.  He said "I don't know if you're hip to this, but the SportClassic polycarbonate fuel tanks, especially the GT1000 tanks, have been prone to "spreading" and hence not connecting with their front mounting pegs.

The result is that the front mounts for the tank don't work and the front of the tank is loose.  This puts undue stress on the single bolt that holds the back of the tank.  This is a warranty fix.  Ducati knows about it and is replacing a lot of tanks,  mine included. 

Check your tank.  If you can grasp it at the lower front and pull it out of the "pegs",  then you should get a replacement tank.  I asked my service guy if the new tanks were any better and he said that they would probably warp in the same way since they are made by the same manufacturer and of the same material.

So...?  Pro Italia said that they were going to make  longer "pegs" or whatever one calls them so that the tanks would be more secure to the frame as a fix.  But, right now, I'm getting a new tank at Ducati's expense."

UPDATE:  See my article on fixing this problem.

If anyone has more information on this or the longer "pegs", please let me know and I'll post it here.  Email me at
 

Spring!

April 14, 2008 - Spring has finally arrived!  Couple of things: I installed some clear vinyl paint protection on the GT1000 and Burn and I took a video, here's the article.

Also, I ordered a set of Carrozzeria alloy wheels to replace the spokes -- these will be gold anodized for some ultra bling!  Will report on them as soon as they arrive.
 

Winter Check-in

March 10, 2008 - Can't believe it's been 3 months since my last posting!  It has been a colder than normal January and February, with very few decent riding days -- unusual here in the Mid-Atlantic.

The few days that were good enough to go riding found me on the Multistrada instead of the GT1000.  After the GT stood there for several weeks, I finally drained and replaced the oil, this time with Mobil 1 15W40 V-Twin, which came highly recommended by the local Ducati crowd.

I didn't do much else - I put some Sta-Bil in the fuel and topped off the tank (I always keep a couple of 5-gallon containers full with gas and Sta-Bil in the winter so I can keep the tanks topped off) and there it sits.  Can't wait for the weather to warm up a bit -- looks like this coming weekend should be good.

In the meantime, I received a couple of emails.  This one is from "P.B." in the UK on his recent purchase of a GT1000:

"I came across your site when surfing the net looking for information on the GT1000 and was impressed by the useful hints and links on the site.  For what it's worth, here are my thoughts on the GT1000 and a bit of background on my previous Ducati.

I have been riding for just on 50 years, mainly on Velocettes - the 350 and 500cc singles - until about 10 years ago when I decided to try something modern before I got too old.  Looking for something interesting, and small and light enough for my 5'10" and 130lbs I settled on a 600SS, one of the last built in 1998.

Except for an uncertain reserve fuel warning light that I discovered the hard way the bike was totally reliable. I changed the oil and filter every spring, usually about 2000-3000 mile intervals, using a cheap brand fully synthetic oil and never had a problem in 22000 miles; it used no oil between changes, I checked the valve clearances at 16,000 miles - they were all still as the factory set them - and replaced the cam belts.

These can be tensioned by twisting 45 degrees with the fingers; if this can be done easily the tension is insufficient, it should only just be possible.  The most important thing to ensure long life, though, is to gently warm the engine at not more than 50% rpm for about 5 miles and I always do this on any bike or car before pushing on.

I managed some touring to France and last year managed 550 miles in one day.  It is necessary to work up to this mileage, don't try it the first time out for a month!  The seat is a bit of a plank but the wind pressure nicely counters the weight on the wrists caused by the low bars at speeds above 60 mph. 60+ (Imperial) mpg was normal and the performance allowed an indicated 90 mph cruise on motorways with plenty in hand and the handling was excellent although, surprisingly, the steering was slower than a good Velocette.  The bike was fairly easy to clean with a good finish. 

Eventually, though, I decided to update again and find something more suited to an elderly gentleman!  Hence the GT1000.

The first thing I did was take out the slack on the throttle cables and I will find a way of damping the very light movement to steady the input at small throttle openings; the system needs some friction.  Do you remember the throttle friction adjustment on the old bikes?  That's what is needed.

I had the Ducati windshield fitted before delivery and was disappointed with the turbulence it generated onto my helmet.  I have removed it and will modify the supports to allow it to be set a couple of inches higher.  The finish is not as good as the 600SS and I am unimpressed by the powder-coated(?) finish of the rear subframe while the rest of the frame is stove enameled.

The engine finish is better, though, and looks as though there might be less corrosion on things like engine bolts.  I find the seat and riding position are very comfortable and fit me well which was one of my most important criteria.  The markings on the speedometer are a pain - black and white and very simple is the best.

The engine characteristics are similar to the 600SS with a minimum engine speed below which it shakes and vibrates; on the GT1000 this is at a lower rpm and much less of a problem so making for an easier ride.  I have not started to take the revs much above about 4500 yet but there does seem to be some vibration coming in at that engine speed although below it the engine is very smooth.  This is in contrast to the smaller bike which was as smooth as silk from 3000 rpm all the way to the red line at 9000 rpm. 

However, there is so much power on the GT even between 3000 and 4500 rpm that, with six gears to choose from, there is little reason to go much outside this band.  Many adverse comments have been made about the gearing and I can only suggest that, while agreeing that 5 gears would have been quite enough with this engine, it is treated as a four or five gear bike, only bothering with sixth gear on a motorway.  The clutch and gearbox are excellent, very much better than the 600SS which wasn't too bad anyway.

I have noticed an occasional shake of the bars when cornering on a bad surface and will be interested to know whether Hagon or Öhlins shocks are worth buying to cure this.  The 600SS handled beautifully with standard (Sachs) suspension so this is something I'd like to get right.

So far, then, I have no reason to suppose that I won't enjoy many miles on the GT although there are one or two niggles to be sorted, but there are on any new bike.  It's largely a matter of changing ones riding style to suit the new machine.

Thanks again for a great blog."

J.D. (see below) responded:  "In response to "P.B."s post about the head shake that he experiences on uneven road surfaces: Yes, it's true - as they say, "They do that."  I think it has more to do with the tire fitment on the GT than the suspension. 

The GT has more rake than the S models, but the Michelin Classic tire has the center grooves front and rear that catch every rain groove in southern California, and, I'm sure, every patch in the tarmac in Britain.  Disconcerting, to say the least, and downright puckering at times.  I can't wait to switch those tires to the Pirellis that are on the Paul Smart and the 1000s. I  think that that will cure the wigglies.  Any info on anyone switching tires?"

More on the GT1000 Battery and Side Panels
"J.D." writes:  "After owning a 1987 Paso 750, and a 1992 851 Strada, let me say, " I fear no Ducati".  I put 50,000 miles on my Paso, and 25,000 miles on my 851 and still counting.  A few weeks ago, I had an electrical glitch with my 851, and while at the shop (Pro Italia), I had the opportunity to test ride the GT, and the Multistrada.

The Multistrada 1100 is totally bitchen, with its Öhlins stuff and all, but I bought the 2007 GT 1000, in grey, and have been digging it ever since.  This site is great, and thanks for all the information.  My taillight burned out on my second ride and rather than thumb through the useless owner's manual looking for taillight fix-it, I found the info here.

One correction on your "removal of the side panels" section. however.  The screw that holds the side panels on is not a "Torx" head screw, but a simple metric Allen head screw.  5 mm, I believe.  I may be wrong on the size.

Also, you don't have to remove the tank to access the battery.  Just unscrew the mounting bolts and rotate the entire case back towards the rear wheel.  The cables give just enough to allow you to remove the top cover and get to the terminals.  Great site and let's see how many other GT 1000 owners we can get to contribute.
 

ECU Recall?

December 2, 2007 - Read my follow up article on the GT 1000's ECU replacement, throttle body balance and lean running condition.

November 16, 2007 - Wow!  Where did summer go??  I've been meaning to bring the GT1000 to Duc Pond Motosports in Winchester, Virginia for a throttle body synchronization check; I wanted to write up the story for a webBikeWorld article. 

After a couple of false starts, I finally got over there this morning and, believe it or not, it was spitting snowflakes just as we were unloading the bike from the Rocket folding trailer.

Donnie Unger has a fantastic Ducati shop that's growing all the time -- and, by the way, he now sells MV Agusta and I think I'm falling in love with the red Brutale on his shop floor...

I've noticed since the bike was new that 1) it pops and backfires on the overrun; and 2) it stalls when I come to a quick stop, especially when the engine temperature is under 180 degrees F.  I thought the popping sounded cool and was part of the Ducati mystique, and although the stalling was annoying, I didn't want to take the bike in during primo riding weather.

So Donnie put it on the lift and discovered that it's running way lean -- 0.0 to 0.1 CO2, when it should be a minimum of 0.7.  The CO2 emissions are an indicator of lean/rich burn.  But since Ducati uses a closed-loop ECU on the GT1000, there was nothing he could do about it, even with some fiddling of the throttle bodies (which, by the way, were perfectly synchronized!).

So he called Ducati, only to find out that there was a recall on that ECU?  I have not heard of this, have not read about it on any of the Ducati forums and I'm surprised I didn't get a letter from Ducati.  Anyway, I left the bike there and Donnie will replace the ECU.

While he's at it, he's going to do the official fuel tank recall.  I checked the fuel lines in the tank myself and wrote this up in the blog, but I should have used the recall kit to secure the fuel lines to the fuel pump and I didn't, so Donnie will.

I've also asked him to replace the front 15-tooth sprocket with a 14-tooth version to lower the ridiculously high (numerically low) final drive ratio, which requires about 80MPH to get the bike into 6th gear -- a common Ducati problem, apparently.

I'll report back on all of this when the job is done...
 

Pazzo Adjustable Levers

October 27, 2007 - Installing Pazzo Levers - Yes, the GT1000 comes with adjustable levers, but take one look at the beautifully made Pazzo levers and the OE levers look like yesterday's pasta. 

The Pazzo's aren't difficult to install, but there is a catch...here's how.

 

Broken Saddlebag Mounts

October 21, 2007 - Broken Saddlebag Mounts  by "M.B.":  Here are a couple of photos of my right-side saddlebag bracket.

One shows the broken weld, and the other shows the very poor weld quality at the joint near the edge of the seat.

I couldn't get the camera to focus any closer than these, but the broken one looks like there wasn't good weld penetration - there's a thin ring of weld where the diameter of the small tube was, but most of the center of the area where the small tube was has no evidence of ever having been melted.
 

October 6, 2007 - New Rear Tire and Oil Change  Here's a real good reason to inspect your tires before every ride.

I usually check the air in the tires, which I do before every ride, and found this sheetrock nail pinned through the sidewall!  Believe it or not, the tire had the correct 32 psi pressure, so apparently the nail did not puncture the tube.

I brought the bike down to the local dealer (RAM Cycles in Gaithersburg, MD) and had a new tire and tube installed.  Normally, I'd order tire from one of the online retailers (see the wBW Motorcycle Tire page) and do it myself; after all, we have a pro motorcycle tire changer handy, but this time I just didn't have the time or energy.

It took 2 days for the dealer to get the new tire, but then they decided that it would probably be a good idea to replace the tube also, which took another couple of days to arrive. 

The total bill was a painful $240.44, which includes $178.88 for a replacement Michelin Pilot Classic original equipment tire; $2.00 for a tire disposal fee; $22.06 for a Metzeler 160/70-17 to 190/50-17 tube and $37.50 for labor.  The labor charge was actually $63.75 but I got a good customer discount of $26.25.

While it was there, I had them flush and refill the clutch fluid.  If you recall, I did this myself not too long ago when I also flushed and refilled the front and rear brake fluid on the GT1000 (see Bleeding the Brakes and Clutch).  But like other GT1000 owners, I found that the clutch fluid turned dark again really quick. 

Apparently, some of the fluid stays in the system and is very hard to flush.  The RAM Cycles techs recommended holding my finger over the hole at the bottom of the reservoir while the Actron brake fluid pump keeps sucking, to get all the old fluid out.

That cost me another $45.26.  Then I also had them change the oil and filter (see our article on changing the oil and filter on a GT1000) and fill it with Motul 15W50 Synthetic.  This cost a whopping $93.79 (the Motul oil is $12.71 per quart)!

The Motul synthetic motorcycle oil is pretty interesting stuff.  It is an unusual green color -- it looks just like antifreeze.  But I used Motul oil in the first oil and filter change on the Multistrada 620 (see blog), which does not have an oil cooler, and I noticed both easier shifting and that the bike runs much cooler -- by about 15 degrees, I estimate, under the same types of conditions. 

I may be dreaming such a dramatic difference, but I know that in 80-85 degree temperatures before using the Motul, the Multistrada was running 200 to 235 degrees, and now it seems to stay around a steady 185; in fact, I it barely cracks 200.  I had the temperature gauge on that bike up near 300 once, coming up a long, steep grade, and I thought that was too hot.

Anyway, lots of money, but at least the work is done and I can get back to riding!
 

September 9, 2007 - GT1000 Notes:   Here's a note from "M.C.":  "First of all, thank you so much for all the excellent information on the blog.  Truly excellent stuff!

I got a two tone GT 1000 a month ago, coming out of a 2001 748.  I love Ducatis, but the 748 was getting to be more of a chore than a joy to ride.  Bad ergos, aging back and knees, you know the rest. The GT is fun to ride, gives all the desmo feel and the retro styling is a standout.

A few points of interest/information: - a small Leatherman tool - the one with the locking pliers - fits in the storage compartment and is a must-have for tightening down the mirrors

- the shock adjustment tool (see blog entry below) you mention is available on Amazon.  Just search for item number and it pops right up.  I use 2 clicks for regular riding and three for two-up.

Hope that all helps!"
 

August 19, 2007 - GT1000 Upgrades:   Here's a note sent by "S.B.":  "Just a note about my most recent changes to my GT1000... I've installed the FBF high compression pistons and a lightweight flywheel from Nichols Mfg.  No baseline hp readings but just my seat of the pants impression is a noticeable improvement in torque and much smoother throttle response.

I've had the Termignoni silencer ECU kit since the bike was new, as well as the Ducati saddlebags and rear luggage rack.  I've got several Ducatis so I've don't have as many miles on this one as I could. I've had it a bit over a year now and it's showing about 5700 miles on the clock.

BTW, the valves were checked at 5400 miles when the pistons were installed and not a single shim needed to be changed. I 've done a track day at Mid-Ohio, logged a 730 mile day with relative comfort, and overall I'm really happy with this bike.  Forget that it's a Sport Classic, it's just a damn fine all around motorcycle."
 

August 2, 2007 - GT1000 Rear Shock Preload Adjustment Spanner:   Here's a good tip sent by "B.R.":  "I just ran into a slight problem with my GT, and thought I'd pass along a cheap and easy fix. As Ducati was kind enough to not include a preload adjustment spanner with our toolkits, I figured it was time for a solution.

As the rear suspension on the bikes comes in its softest position, the bike may not handle properly with a tour load or a passenger.  The old kits had a spanner for this, the new ones don't.  I'm not a big fan of the hammer and screwdriver method of adjusting the preload so off to a local bike dealer I went.

All they had was a preload wrench for a monoshock which was way too large.  Ebay was no better.  Finally I found myself at Drag Specialties website.  They had a very nice looking adjustable spanner on their site.  Although they don't sell to individuals, they sell to a ton of retail bike dealers, my local Harley dealer being one of them.  They had one in stock and it fit perfectly.  Preload was adjusted in like 45 seconds with ease. 

The best part was the price of 13.00 USD which I considered a real bargain.  Remember, turn clockwise to tighten, but be conservative and try it one click at a time. Hopefully, this will help other GT owners that were frustrated with the lack of a factory wrench included with our bikes."

Editor's Note:  The Drag Specialties "Shock Spanner Wrench" is their part number DS-192282, with a list price of $13.95.
 

July 27, 2007 - Updated Pit Bull Rear Stand Instructions:  Yikes!  Who knew?  I bought one of the very first Pit Bull SportClassic rear stands, which has been working perfectly, but I've been using it wrong all this time!  See the updated article.
 

July 13, 2007 - Windshield and Saddlebag Installation Instructions:  See the table above; I uploaded .pdf versions of the official Ducati installation instructions for the GT1000 windshield and saddlebags that you can download and print, just in case you lost yours (like I did).  These are scans of the paper documents, so they're a bit dodgy, but eminently usable.
 

July 12, 2007 - Luggage Rack Installation:  A note from "T.K.":  "Thought I'd say that I installed the luggage rack last night and over all I'm pleased mostly because it's a pretty beefy unit with good chrome plating.

BUT: the holes don't line up real well, the new bolts are too short for the front of the rack (and) the washers are too thick.

SO: I used 6x20mm bolts up front with thinner washers: 1.03mm vs 2.11mm this let more of the bolt reach the end of the nut.

Since it takes more than two hands I used needle nose vise grips with shrink tape on the teeth to hold the rack in place while starting the bolts.  I also used about a two in long bolt to pull the rack up snug than put in the other bolts."

Here's more on the GT1000 luggage rack, received on July 23, 2007 from "B.R.":  "Ducati offers one for about $175 very simple install, less than 5 min.  Follows curve of rear seat so looks good, but limits carrying something large.  Chrome is so-so, I have rust in a few spots and have not even gotten the bike very wet.  Will stabilize a fairly good size duffel on the rear of the seat.  Looks good.  I note they now offer a rack bag that fits this rack.  Makes a great handle for pushing the bike around."
 

July 11, 2007 - Clutch Fluid Problem:  I recently changed the clutch and brake fluid (see April 28 entry below) and just noticed that the clutch fluid is the color of tar.  The clutch feels like it only engages at almost the end of the lever travel, so something is up.  I made an appointment to bring the bike in to fix that and also a stalling problem - it stalls if I shut the throttle too quickly when stopping.  I'll report back after the repairs... I may also have them install a 14-tooth front sprocket while it's in the shop.
 

June 27, 2007 - GT1000 Rear Brake Reservoir:  GT1000 owners may have noticed that the brake fluid in the rear brake reservoir seems to quickly get dirty.  Apparently, the seal on the rear reservoir is the culprit.  Here's a tip from "T.K.":  Some of the GT owners are replacing the reservoir with a better sealing unit from the Buell S-2.  P/N# HO206.8AQ @ $ 9.55.  "It mounts pretty much the same as the unit on the GT and has the same look.  I have ordered one and will let you know how it works out."
 

June 10, 2007 - GT1000 Saddlebag Installation:  I finally got them installed!  The Ducati instructions make it seem easy, but I ran into a few problems and apparently I'm not the only one.  Here's the full story with photos.
 

June 7, 2007 - Joe's Matching Ducatis:  Be sure to read Joe's great article on his matching 750GT and GT1000!  Here's a taste:

P.S. I finally installed the Ducati bags on my GT1000!  However, I ran into some problems with the bag mounts... I have many photos ready to go, so all I have to do is write it up, hopefully this weekend.  But here's a tip: based on my experience, if you can get somebody to install these for you for, say, 100 bucks or less, do it!  I'm not sure if I'm the only one who ran into problems, but if GT1000 owners are going through what I had to go through to get them installed, it's worth paying a shop to do it instead!  Here's the full story with photos
 

May 31, 2007 - GT1000 Shop Manual:  In case you didn't catch it on the Fuel Line Recall Fix page, here's a source for what's claimed to be the official Ducati GT1000 shop manual.  I haven't checked this out but if anyone has, please let me know.

wBW visitor "P.E." sent us a note regarding a GT1000 shop manual "I searched the official Ducati site and did not find it.  But luckily I found it at the site of a very ambitious Ducati seller in Germany. This link shows the CD-Rom.  It contains 150MB of data, a shop manual and a spare part catalogue.   The content is presented in several languages: Italiano, English, Deutsch, Francais, Espanol, Portuguese, USA, Japan. But the charge is enormous: 51,20 €.")

Also, here's a note from "M.D.":  "I wanted to tell you that this web site has shop manuals for 2,50 Euros. That's around $3.35 in US dollars. I just bought one and in about 10 minutes I had a link to download it. It's pretty big, otherwise I'd just email it to you.
 

May 29, 2007 - Staintune Mufflers:  I've been really slacking off lately in the GT1000 department because I have way too many other projects going on!  I hope to finally get to the saddlebags this week, but there's probably not much more I can add other than some good photos (I hope) of the installation procedure.  Many other GT owners have already posted good information on how to install the Ducati saddlebags. 

In the meantime, here's a note from "G.C.E" on his Staintune reverse-cone mufflers for the GT1000:

"I have been looking for a new set of mufflers for my Ducati GT 1000 for about four months.  The stock ones were disappointing even after I punched a few holes in the bafflers.  The intake was louder than the exhaust.  I looked at the Termi's but the price and being the only mufflers I could find for my bike made me hesitate.

I found the Staintunes on the 'net and being $400 cheaper and sweeter-looking made me take the plunge.  I've always had a weakness for reverse cone megaphones.  Although they were made in Australia they were available through my local bike shop (no worries mate) and they even gave me a discount.  All stainless and the finish was excellent.  I was still worried that they might not have the sound I wanted.

Installing them took about an hour (half of that looking for the right Allen wrench).  Fit was great and the sound made me feel young again ....for about five minutes but what the hell.  Just idling was a pleasure to hear.  Not raspy or irritating ....very mellow. 

There are no restrictions in these muffles and they are set up to work with the original chip.  A 5.3 hp gain at the rear wheel they claim and I felt it right away.  It makes the bike less balky and smoothes things out.... I don't think many people will be disappointed with these mufflers."
 

May 9, 2007 - GT1000 Handlebar Risers:  CJ from Switzerland writes: "I have a 2007 GT1000 that I bought a few weeks ago.  Great bike but I also wanted a more upright seating position so I ordered handlebar risers from GenMar Manufacturing in Arrey, New Mexico for delivered price of US $82.00.

Today I went to install them and noted that the front brake line is too short to permit installation.  When I go to the dealer for a 1,000 km check up I will find out how much a longer brake line costs but this is more work than I expected so just wanted to let your readers know.

Editor's Note:  CJ also told us that the GT1000 handlebar risers are not currently listed on the GenMar website but they do have them in stock; they are 40mm risers with a finish that matches the bike's stock finish.
 

April 28, 2007 - Bleeding the Brakes and Hydraulic Clutch:  The GT1000's brake fluid looked like coffee, so it was time for a flush 'n' fill.  We wrote about motorcycle brake bleeding a long time ago, so we broke out the old Actron vacuum pump and had a go to see if the same technique would work on the Ducati.

Read how in this webBikeWorld technical article.  This is not a difficult job if you have the right tools and it can save you a lot of $$, both for the service call and to prevent having to purchase a new master cylinder if it gets corroded.  And believe me, it doesn't take much to end up with a corroded master cylinder!