by Rick K. and "Burn" for webBikeWorld.com
Edtior's Note: This is an update
"GT1000 Fuel Tank
Problem?" posting from
my Ducati GT1000 blog
See also the
Ducati GT1000 Fuel
Line Recall
article for more information |
Removing the GT1000 Fuel Tank
Background
We received a few emails recently from GT1000 owners who were
asking if we knew anything about a problem with loose GT1000 fuel
tanks.
Apparently, some owners have been experiencing a
"spreading" problem, where the polycarbonate (or so
I'm told) fuel tank starts to
spread or sag and the front fuel tank holders no longer do their job.
The fuel tank becomes loose in front, a potentially dangerous
problem.
I hadn't experienced this on my bike, until very
recently, when I pulled the tank to install a relay wiring
harness for an upcoming horn article Burn and I are working on.
Here's a copy of an email that describes the
problem, repeated from the GT1000 Blog entry that was sent by
webBikeWorld visitor J.D., :
| "I don't know if you're hip to this, but the SportClassic polycarbonate fuel tanks, especially the GT1000 tanks, have been
prone to "spreading" and hence not connecting with their front mounting pegs. The result is that the front mounts for the tank don't work and the front of
the tank is loose. This puts undue stress on the single bolt that holds
the back of the tank. This is a warranty fix. Ducati knows about it and is
replacing a lot of tanks, mine included.
Check your tank. If you can grasp it at the lower front and pull it out of
the "pegs", then you should get a replacement tank. I asked my service guy if
the new tanks were any better and he said that they would probably warp in the
same way since they are made by the same manufacturer and of the same material.
So...? Pro Italia said that they were going to make longer "pegs" or
whatever one calls them so that the tanks would be more secure to the frame as a
fix. But, right now, I'm getting a new tank at Ducati's expense."
|
It's hard to believe that something as simple as
a fuel tank attachment would or could be a problem, but there
you have it. I discovered it once I loosened the single bolt at the back of
the tank (see this article on
removing the GT1000 fuel tank), and realized that the entire tank could be
lifted straight up and off the bike with nothing to catch it.
This isn't how it's supposed to work; there are
two U-shaped brackets that are (fortunately) bolted on either
side of the bike, attached to the top frame tube. Two
matching rubber bumpers underneath the fuel tank are supposed to
slip into these U-shaped brackets and hold the tank in front.
The system worked when I first got the bike, but
apparently, the spreading problem is real -- the fuel tank has
spread out at the bottom, possibly due either to insufficient
internal support or -- I hope not -- fuel softening the
polycarbonate?
In any case, there's an easy fix. Whether
or not this is a permanent fix is yet to be determined. If
the fuel tank doesn't deflate any farther, I'll be OK. I'm
going to check with the dealer on this, although at least one
webBikeWorld reader told us that the dealer he talked to would
replace his tank, but he would expect the same problem to happen
again, as the replacement tanks are made from the same material
by the same supplier.
Disclaimer
We don't usually post disclaimers because we assume
webBikeWorlders are the most intelligent, knowledgeable and
safest motorcycle owners and riders on the planet. True,
right??
But note that messing with the fuel tank is a
serious and potentially dangerous project. All of the fuel
should be safely drained from the tank prior to starting this
project. The battery should be disconnected -- although on
the GT1000, the fuel tank has to be lifted first to get to the
battery.
This job should be done outdoors, away from the
garage or house. Also, I don't know if this "solution" is
recommended, or if it's dangerous, or will cause other problems.
I'm only reporting what Burn and I did and it seems to work so
far -- I don't know if it will work for you or if it will
permanently solve the problem.
|
NOTE:
Report safety-related defects or a problems with a motor
vehicle or motor vehicle equipment. Vehicle
problems can be reported
here to the U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration (NHTSA) Office of Defects Investigation.
|
A Fix
It's simple: Add a few 6 mm washers under the U-shaped
bracket that holds the rubber bumpers. I went down to the
hardware store and got some M6x25 SHCS (socket head cap screws)
and some 6 mm washers. I had to experiment to see how many
washers it would take; I started with 2, which helped but the
tank was still slightly loose, so I went to 3 on each side and
the tank is now tight as a drum.
In fact, I had to give it some muscle to get the
rubber bumpers to push up into the brackets. As long as
the tank doesn't spread any farther, I'm all set.
By the way -- I first tried using a pair of
Channelock pliers to spread the U-shaped brackets out, but that
actually made the problem worse, because when they're spread out
on the bottom, they push in at the top, and there's nothing left
to prevent the rubber bumper from slipping right out the top.
Here it is in photos; again, read my article on
removing the
GT1000 fuel tank first:
|
 |
| In the photo above, the fuel tank bolt in the
rear has been removed and the fuel tank is lifted.
The bracket in the center of the photo is the
culprit. After the fuel tank spreads, the lips
of this bracket are too short to hold the rubber
bumper that can't be seen up underneath the fuel
tank. Remove the two 5 mm SHCS and remove the
bracket. The nuts that hold the screws are
permanently attached to a bracket welded to the
frame tube, so all you have to do is back out the
screws. |
| |
 |
| In this photo, the stock silver-colored 6 mm
SHCS is in the center of the three. The 25 mm
long SHCS is at the right with 4 washers. Note
that the length of thread after the 6 mm flat
washers have been placed on the screw is about the
same as the amount of thread length of the stock
silver screw. |
| |
 |
| Here's a close-up of the U-shaped bracket with
the new M6x25 SHCS and the three 6 mm washers.
Remember that the washers have to go on the side
shown so that the bracket will stand out from the
frame by that amount, in effect making the U-shaped
bracket wider. |
| |
 |
| Here's the finished product. The U-shaped
bracket is installed with the 3 washers. Note
that the bracket is now standing out from the frame
by the width of the washers. You may want to use
some blue Loctite on the threads to make sure the
screws stay put.
Be careful when re-installing the fuel tank.
Put your hands underneath and feel to make sure the
rubber bumpers under the tank are sliding correctly
into the U-shaped brackets on either side.
Note that you may need more or less washers, but
I wouldn't go more than 4 wide.
Please send comments or any tips you might have
on this project to the email address below.
Posted Date: July 31, 2008. |
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►Reader Comments and Owner Feedback
Please
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comments to
Comments are ordered from most recent to oldest.
From "J" (5/09): "Hi. First let me say how
much I enjoy your site. Great info about upgrades and
recalls. I do, however, notice a lot of entries about
problems with the GT's gearing, master cylinder, tank expansion,
etc.
I have a 2007 GT1000 with 10,000 miles on it. It's a daily
rider to and from work as well as weekend excursions with my
wife on her monster. I purchased it and before it even came home
with me it had the Termi, ECU upgrade with.
Now I know nobody wants to hear this, but I have never
experienced a single problem with this bike! T he gearing is
perfect, no tank expansion, nothing. Just had to drop a
note and let everyone know that this is a great bike.
Treat it well and it will return the favor. Good Luck.
P.S. My new
sport rear
hugger from Geoff (review) is awesome! Thanks for the info
and connection!"