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by Chris B. for webBikeWorld
More: wBW
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| Owner Comments and Alarm
Customization (Below)
Imagine this: you’re on the way home from a 15 day,
6,300 mile “tour of a lifetime” across the U.S.A.
After a good night’s rest in a motel you head out to
your bike for a routine pre-ride inspection, and all you
find is an empty parking spot.
Fiction? No. This actually happened to a
fellow I met on a trip out west last September.
Imagine his panic when he discovered that his brand new
’05 Ducati ST3 was missing!
Fortunately, in this case, the bike was later found
behind a shed not far from the parking lot. Some
wiring had been cut cut, the lock was jimmied and there
was some cosmetic damage, but at least it was all there.
The end result? The bike was towed to the nearest
Ducati dealer, but he had to fly home and then fly back
several weeks later to retrieve it. Lots of
heartache, but at least he got his bike back!
This disaster might possibly have been avoided if the
bike had been equipped with a motion activated alarm
system -- perhaps the wannabe thieves would have left it
alone, especially after noticing the alarm system's
flashing LED, warning them "Don't touch me!"
Or perhaps they would have thought twice about it as
soon as the bike was moved, triggering the alarm.
Motorcycle alarm systems are sometimes installed as
standard (or optional) equipment on a few bikes, but the
majority have no protection other than a steering lock.
Some, like that Ducati, come with computer chips
built into the key (actually a type of low frequency
RFID system), a feature commonly found in automobiles.
But this only prevents someone from starting the motor,
and they could still simply pick up the bike and make
off with it.
This is where an alarm system, such as this version
from Talon Motorcycle Alarm Systems, might save you from
a similar fate. Talon has been in business for
about 2 years now, growing out of a personal need by its
owner, Brad Vansickle.
Brad had purchased an alarm from an online auction
but found that it left much to be desired, so he decided
he would source out some quality components and then put
together his own system that would meet both his needs
and that of other riders.
As with any start-up business, it hasn’t been all
fun, but the hard work is starting to pay off. The
first system, the Komodo 2.0, has helped him develop a
following among motorcyclists. The product's
success has allowed Brad to create a GPS location
system, and he's also been working on an alarm with a
paging system, which is a complex project because it
requires meeting the radio frequency certifications of
other countries.
In the meantime, Talon also has their model T-2200,
the subject of this review. The T-2200 is a
one-way alarm system, available now for the 2006 riding
season. On the surface it looks like a basic
alarm, but it comes with standard equipment that is
either not available or is optional at additional cost
on competing motorcycle alarm systems.
Included in the Talon T-2200 motorcycle alarm system
are two compact, keychain sized remotes; an immobilizer;
an LED alarm status indicator; a negative trigger input
for protecting saddlebags, fairings or any removable
parts; and a remote trunk release feature. Also in
the works is a factory plug-in kit which should make
connections to the bike’s harness even easier.
Talon’s website is continually updated with
information to provide specific wiring instructions for
individual bikes/models. Brad was kind enough to
send me the specific instructions and a color wiring
diagram for my son’s 2004 Suzuki GSX-R 600, which also
includes the specific wire colors for that bike.
Since the “Gixxer” is an ideal target for theft, I
felt it would be a good test mule for the T-2200 system.
And with a snowstorm arriving for the weekend it was
also the perfect time to tackle the install in my heated
garage.
Installing the Talon T-2200 Motorcycle Alarm
System
After laying out all of the parts and reviewing the
instructions, we removed both side fairings and the
seat-tail section. We also removed the headlamp
assembly, but we probably could have left it in place.
After much “discussion”, we opted to mount the LED alarm
status indicator in the aluminum frame member that
supports the headlamp assembly and dash panel (see
yellow arrow, photo below). We
wanted a location where it would be visible to anyone
that might have a notion to disturb the bike and to
easily check the alarm status.
Installation instructions for the LED specified a
5/16” hole with ¾” clearance behind the hole.
Either my drill bit is on the large side or the LED is a
wee bit smaller than 5/16”, but we ended up with a very
loose fit. This was remedied with a piece of
shrink-wrap around the base of the LED and by gently
dimpling the inside surface with a center-punch.
This was the only complication encountered with the
instructions.

(Drilling Notes: When drilling a
hole by hand, first use a center punch to create a guide
for the drill tip. Make sure the drill bit is
perfectly ground and sharp. Use small diameter
drill bits first to create a pilot hole. You may
find that a drill bit slightly undersize will create the
correct sized hole because drilling with a hand drill
often creates wobble, which will result in a larger
diameter hole than expected).
The next step was confirming the wires that would be
needed for the turn signals and tail light, along with a
place for mounting the siren and control unit. All
of this was easily done right in the tail section of the
bike, since the wiring for both rear turn signals and
the tail light are right there, and all of the wire
colors were as indicated by the instructions.

The siren was mounted on the left inside panel of the
storage compartment with a screw from the outside and a
clip for it to thread into (see photo below). This had the benefit
of keeping it away from water and debris. We
didn’t have to worry as much about having it pointed
down to ensure drainage, and there’s no way someone can
clip the wiring to it and thus silence the siren.

Since the sensor control unit should be kept away
from heat sources, I had hopes of mounting it under the
pillion seat brace, but wasn’t going to commit to that
location until we could determine it would provide
adequate response to movement.
Brad had suggested wiring things up first and then
playing with different locations and orientations to
find the best set-up. This we did by simply using
wire nuts to temporarily make connections to components.
We had wires hanging everywhere, but it gave us the
ability to move the sensor around. We found it
would work fine mounted where we had planned, with the
flat surface facing up and the connector to the right
side of the bike.
The sensor did not seem to respond well when mounted
in a vertical plane. With the system armed and the
sensitivity set at its middle setting, it would sound
just before the bike was straight up after raising it
off the side stand. The brace I had in mind for
mounting the sensor was a bit too narrow. We
resolved this by fabricating a small plate out of some
3/16” wood and securing it to the brace with screws into
clips. These clips are commonly used in automobile
interiors and I usually have a few on hand.
Instead of using the supplied “hook and loop”
material we opted to secure the sensor to the adapter
plate with two machine screws and nuts, along with a
drop of thread locker to keep them from coming loose.
Next was figuring out where to mount the immobilizer
relay that would interrupt the starter solenoid circuit
and where to make the connections into that circuit.
The relay fit nicely just behind the battery secured to
the base of the compartment.
I’m not one for cutting harness wires, so after
raising the fuel tank far enough to slip a 2”x4” under
each end (without disconnecting anything) we found the
stock connector to the starter solenoid. I simply
opened it and used one male and one female connector
soldered onto the immobilizer relay harness to make my
connections. The only other connections necessary
were to the battery positive and ground.
All of the wiring for the T-2200 had more than ample
length except for the two leads going from the
immobilizer relay to the starter solenoid and the one to
the LED. I had to lengthen these by about 12”
each.
Now that the operation of the alarm system was
confirmed and all of the mounting locations were
determined, we decided to cut the wires to length rather
than bundle up the excess. We also eliminated any
wires we wouldn’t be using, one of which can be used to
remotely open a trunk latch, if you have such as option,
or even actuate some accent lighting as you approach the
bike in the dark. That could look pretty cool...
The other wire we wouldn’t be using can be used for
an optional trigger input. I have to admit this
one had me puzzled. Brad explained to me that by
using a simple two part magnetic-type switch, similar to
the ones seen on doors in a building, this input can be
used to protect luggage compartments, seats and even
fairings.
I may look into rigging something up for the rider’s
seat, so if someone were to remove the seat to access
the battery, it would set off the alarm. Another
use would be to connect a perimeter sensor (not yet
available directly from Talon). The unused wires
are simple to eliminate by removing the connector at the
control unit, pressing in the barb on the pin socket and
withdrawing it from the connector.
Rather than rely on the motorcycle frame as a ground
for the LED and siren using the supplied screws into the
frame, my son and I ran a ground wire directly from the
LED and siren to the battery, ensuring a secure ground.
Scotch locks were used to tap into the tail light for
the 12-Volt “key on” signal and both turn signal
circuits for actuation of the turn signals front and
rear. The turn signals provide a visual
confirmation of locking and unlocking and are actuated
when the alarm is set off. All other connections
were soldered and shrink-wrapped.
With the wires trimmed to length they were wrapped
together (where possible) with a cloth type electrical
tape. The type I used is made in Germany and is
tough as nails. The wires were routed along the
stock harness to eliminate being obvious or easily
accessed by others.
With the bike fully reassembled, we started playing
around with the options and the sensitivity settings.
Whenever the Talon T-2200 motorcycle alarm is armed or
disarmed, it flashes the turn-signals and chirps the
siren. It’s also possible to do this without the
siren sounding (silent mode) with the press of a button.
There is a whole list of optional ways to operate or
set up the system. I’m surprised my wife didn’t
come out and give us the third degree about playing
around with the alarm. It’s LOUD! At its
highest sensitivity we could barely sit on or bump the
bike without the Talon T-2200 responding with the two
“warn-away” chirps. When raised up off the side
stand, it went into its full alarm mode: siren wailing
away and the turn-signals flashing. That’s sure to
get someone’s attention!
There’s also a “panic” feature should you need to
draw attention during an emergency situation. My
only disappointment was with the LED. It seemed a bit on
the dim side (Editor's Note: see below for a
work-around). An improvement would be to make the
LED brighter or bigger. This would help catch a
would-be thief’s eye and hopefully make him take a pass
on messing with the bike.
Conclusion
I’m very pleased with how well the Talon T-2200 alarm is
made and how the system operates. It’s compact,
fairly simple to install (depending on your bike and
available space), comes with two remotes and batteries.
It can be adjusted for sensitivity to personal
preferences.
The two additional operational circuits are an added
bonus. With motorcycle theft rates reportedly
climbing by as much as 55% and as many as 17 stolen in a
single month in a major Florida city, it seems we need
as much of a theft deterrent as possible. The
T-2200 alarm system by Talon could very well provide
that “edge” needed as a theft deterrent. In the
field of alarm systems costing under $200 it is very
competitively priced, costing less than many of the
other systems offering fewer options.
And here's a bonus: A call to my insurance company
revealed they offer a discount for having an alarm
system installed on the bike. Sound like a wining
combo to me.
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| Available
From: Talon
Alarm Systems |
Suggested
Retail Price: $119.00 (US); $139.99 (CDN) |
| Colors:
N/A |
Made
in: Canada |
Talon T-2200 Specifications:
- Compact microprocessor
control module
- Weatherproof design
- Starter immobilizer
- Current Sensor
(prevents hotwiring)
- 2 Multi-function 4 button
miniature remote transmitters
- Multi-function LED
status indicator
- Remote control arming / disarming
- Passive / active arming
(selectable by remote)
- Audible and visual
arming / disarming
- Silent arming / disarming
(selectable by remote)
- Automatic rearming
(selectable by remote)
- Remote controlled panic operation
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- Built-in flashing lights relay
- Built-in dual stage shock sensor
- Built-in tilt sensor
- Adjustable shock sensitivity
(selectable by remote)
- On/off shock sensor
(selectable by remote)
- Remote control trunk release
- Plug-in wiring harness
- Instant negative trigger input
(protect saddlebags, fairings
or any other removable part)
- 30 second siren duration
with automatic reset
- Automatic siren off
(ten times output)
- Current consumption under 5mA
- Valet / emergency override switch
- Multi-code learning
- Remote searching
- Compact design piezo siren
- Batteries included
- 2 year warranty
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►Owner Comments Comments? Send them to
Comments are ordered from most recent to oldest.
From "L.P.": "After
reading your recent review I installed a Talon T-2200
alarm system on my Aprilia and experienced the exact
same problems as you did, the LED furnished was not the
easiest to mount and after installing proved to be very
dim.
I wrote to Brad at Talon to see if he
had any suggestions regarding the dim display of the
LED. He suggested that I buy a 'HYPER' LED and a
5V relay from the local parts supplier and hook it up to
the same circuit as the stock item. Sounded just a
little complicated but what the heck, I decided to have
a go at it. With that in mind I stopped by Radio
Shack where they had all the items plus they also
carried another 5V LED in blue. This seemed like a
possible alternative to doing relays, etc., so I bought
one along with a chrome Panel Mount.
After opening up the hole I'd made for
the original LED I installed the new one with it's shiny
panel mount in the same spot. The end result was
very satisfactory, the light is very bright and the
chrome mount reflects it even more. I sent this
information to Brad in case he wants to forward it to
any other users but so far he hasn't responded.
Here's the Radio Shack part numbers, the total cost of
these items was under $5.00:
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Alarm off |
Alarm activated & blinking |
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